2W1ETN

Last week when testing the Range Rover with everything running I discovered the single 105a/h battery I had placed in the boot wasn’t quite up to the job.

Ok it has 500 potential recharge cycles at 70% usage, but running it flat I’m going to really deplete that potential and thus I’ve come to the conclusion that I need another two.

With three batteries in the boot, with about 300amp/h between them, I shouldn’t need to have to start the engine to apply a charge. The main car battery is disconnected by means of a relay; thus when the engine is off the batteries now in the boot are isolated from the rest of the car.

You might wonder, why not just run the engine? Well despite all my efforts of finding an ex police Range Rover, applying additional ferrite filters to a lot of the loom at some expense, there is still on 20 meters a lot of noise which no doubt is coming from the ignition.

I’ve recently purchased from high quality Magnecor HT leads which I’m hoping will reduce the problem. They are Silicone competition leads which promise “excellent RFI and EMI suppression”. Fingers crossed that coupled with some new spark plugs (well why not) the issue of RFI will be gone.

I also need to get a move on and find a way to mount the solar panel to the roof. I’m currently seeking a Expedition Roof Rack to enable me to mount it on. Being a 40watt job, it should address the issue of battery discharge when doing very little and keep everything primed without the need to remove the batteries and trickle charge them.

Basically where the vehicle is parked, its half sticks out of the underground car park. So it seems a shame to not make use of the light and charge it up not only when static at home, but also when on a beach or on top of some hill. It will hopefully ensure that whilst receiving at least, the amount of powering being used won’t exceed what the panel is generating (I wish).